They say everyone is Irish on St. Patrick’s Day — and there’s no better place to embrace the Celtic spirit than on the Emerald Isle itself.
While the tradition of the St. Paddy’s parade actually began in North America when immigrants gathered to honor their homeland, Ireland now boasts its own extravagant celebrations, including Dublin’s epic three-day festival, a St. Patrick pilgrimage, and programs throughout the country jam-packed with poetry, sports, and music.
“We want our guests to immerse themselves in the vibrant culture of the Irish people,” said Derek Brennan, guest experience & guardianship manager at Anantara the Marker Dublin Hotel. “We want them to walk in the footsteps of St. Patrick — to go to the Hill of Tara, where he lit the fire to tell the chieftains of Ireland that there was a higher chieftain — and celebrate with us so we can welcome them home.”
In the United States, St. Patrick’s has evolved into a commercialized holiday largely associated with McDonald’s Shamrock Shake, dying rivers green and throwing back more than a few pints. But in Ireland, the occasion continues to carry deeper meaning with religious significance.
“St. Patrick’s Day is a national holiday, celebrating one of Ireland’s patron saints,” said Kristen Gill, the former director of development at the Irish American Cultural Institute. “People might start the day by going to church. When Irish immigrants brought St. Patrick’s Day traditions to the United States, the day became a more secular celebration of Irish culture.”
While some larger cities such as Dublin exude a party atmosphere, don’t expect to find New York City’s raucous mischief-making. “In the US, some people see St. Patrick’s as a license to get very drunk in the stereotypical Irish way,” said Anthony Malone, director of development at the Irish Exit in New York. “In Ireland, we’re Irish every day.”
So what should an Irish St. Patrick’s itinerary involve if you’re not bellying up to the bar? Prepare for not one, but multiple days of more wholesome celebration that recognize the Eire’s patron saint as well as the nation’s rich heritage.
“Festivals around the country hold many events like storytelling sessions and poetry readings that speak to Ireland’s traditions,” said Ciara Sugrue, head of international publicity & trade marketing at Fáilte Ireland. “It’s a great time to visit because there’s just so much going on.” Soak up the spectacle on the street and check out the regional programs, full of everything from an international band championship in Limerick to a night market in Cork.
Most locals end the day catching up with their loved ones and indulging in hearty, classic dishes like Guinness and oysters, fish and chips, boxty (Irish potato pancakes) and Irish coddle, a type of stew often made to use up leftovers.
“For me, the holiday is best celebrated over a pint or a meal with friends and family in a local pub, accompanied by a live traditional Irish music and dance session,” said Gill. “And, of course, some Irish banter and storytelling.”
Kick off the party in Dublin
No St. Patrick’s Day trip to Ireland is complete without a stop at the capital, host of the world’s largest St. Patrick’s Festival (March 15 to 17, this year).
In addition to the parade itself, which gathers over a half-million spectators and 4,000 participants, the three-day lineup includes over 50 pop-ups across the city. Don’t miss the Céilí Mór, where you can learn the Irish step dance from former “Riverdance” star Dearbhla Lennon. (Poodle socks not provided).
Members of the Irish diaspora should head to EPIC: The Irish Emigration Museum to discover more about their roots and even trace their family history. A mini hub for this year’s St. Patrick’s Day Festival, the museum is planning its own events, from a quirky “tayto” (potato chip) sandwich-making class to Ar Ais Arís, an immersive VR experience about Irish emigration.
On St. Patrick’s alone, around 13 million pints of Guinness are consumed worldwide — more than 800% more than the average day. Pay tribute to the Irish icon and wrap up your trip to Dublin with a brewery tour at the Guinness Storehouse, which will hold five days of Irish music, dancing, food and art.
Follow in St. Patrick’s footsteps
While Dublin is still partying, make your way to Armagh, Ireland’s ecclesiastical capital and one of its oldest cities, for the Home of St. Patrick Festival (March 9 to 17). Steeped in heritage and faith, the town has two stunning Saint Patrick’s cathedrals: the Church of Ireland Cathedral, built on the site of St. Patrick’s first stone church, and the Gothic-style Catholic Parish. According to legend, this is where St. Patrick negotiated with a chieftain to build his first church, solidifying Armagh as the center of Irish Christianity.
Armagh also marks the beginning of St. Patrick’s Way: The Pilgrim Walk. Depending on your pace, the 82-mile pilgrimage takes around six to 10 days. (It’s okay to rent a car and cheat a little). You’ll pass through stunning Irish countryside as you follow a hiking trail that connects key sites relating to St. Patrick, like Navan Fort, the ancient seat of the kings of Ulster and Saul Church, built on the site of St. Patrick’s earliest place of Christian worship.
The journey ends in Downpatrick, where you can visit Down Cathedral, close to St. Patrick’s final resting place, and the Saint Patrick Centre, the only permanent exhibition in the world dedicated to the saint.
Take the road less-traveled
Remember that St. Patrick’s Day happens throughout the entire country; just about every village, no matter how small, offers its own unique celebration.
“We have headline occasions you shouldn’t miss, but sometimes it’s nice to leave the Big Smoke,” said Brennan. “I’d encourage people to reach out to their second cousins and explore more of Ireland. That’s the beauty of it — the connectivity. They do say that half of America is Irish and the other half wants to be Irish.”
To see where St. Patrick’s Day, as we know it, began in Ireland, head to Waterford.
“They held the first St. Patrick’s Day parade in 1903,” said Sugrue. “Every year they present a Waterford Crystal bowl full of shamrocks to the US President.”
Galway, renowned for its thriving theater scene, puts on an especially elaborate parade with street performances by the award-winning Macnas theater company and their giant puppets.
If you’re seeking a bit of Irish nostalgia, consider Kilkenny Tradfest, which presents traditional Irish folk concerts, workshops and a music trail around town and runs concurrently with their main festival every year.
No matter the size of the city you end up in, it’s sure to be full of Irish pride and St. Patrick’s Day spirit.
The dos and don’ts
The Irish don’t stand on formality so, “Embrace the Irish culture authentically, and don’t try too hard to ‘be Irish,’” said Gill. “Just be yourself, and the Irish will love you, even if they ‘slag’ (tease) you a bit for it.”
Here are a few basic rules to guide you along while celebrating.
Don’t: Order an “Irish car bomb” at the pub.
Do: Buy a round of Guinness for the whole table.
Don’t: Pinch someone who forgets to wear green. (You’re unlikely to find them, anyway).
Do: Wear head-to-toe shamrock.
Don’t: Drunkenly tell the whole pub your great-great-grandfather was Irish.
Do: Use a bit of liquid courage to join in a live music session.
Don’t: Pronounce it “St. Patty’s” — it’s St. Patrick’s or St. Paddy’s.